Lady Hamilton 2019

WLADYSLOWO TO GANDSK (51 miles)

Day 18  Thursday, 6^th June 2019

Set off at 7.15 am as we have to go round the firing range no.11 as it’s closed today, rather than scoot along the Hel Peninsula, which sticks out from our port southeastwards into the Gulf of Gdansk.  This adds another 15 miles to our trip. 

We’re motor-sailing today as we tried to sail close-hauled first thing but the wind died away and was on the nose.  Fishing boats ahead of us, just outside the firing range, and a big container ship (‘Frederik’) going to our waypoint.  Hailed on Channel 16 by the Polish Border Control saying Area 11 is closed today – and we’re in it!  The skipper tells them we’re avoiding a collision with a big ship and we’ve cut the corner of Area 11 and will get back on track shortly.  There’s absolutely no activity to be seen in Area 11 at all – but they’re watching us.

Then ‘Frederik’ hails us on Ch 16 and says go to Ch 6.  The Captain says he’s turning to starboard, across our path, and wishes us ‘Happy Sailing!’  We turn as well, down the side of Area 11.  We are in depths of 90 m – twice as deep as the North Sea!

More fishing boats just off the Hel Peninsula.  It’s taken us 6.5 hours to get round Area 11!  Added another 15 miles to our journey – that’s another 3 hours.

This SAR vessel is going to get another yacht that went into the A11 area.  We’ve heard Border Control calling him on Ch 16 several times but he must have his radio switched off!

We dip our ensign as we pass the Westerplatte monument at the entrance, commemorating all Poles who died in WW11.  It is famous for the Battle of Westerplatte which was the first clash between Polish and German forces during the invasion of Poland and thus the first battle of the European theatre of WW11.

This castle is near the entrance and a pirate ship sails out to sea.

We’re completely amazed by all the huge ships and wharves in Gdansk as we go down the river.  I photograph one called ‘Susana S’ for our daughter-in-law, Susannah Stuart. 

Gdansk is situated at the mouth of the Wisla River, the largest river in Poland.  At a strategic location on the Amber Road, the city has long been fortified trading settlement.  It was a stronghold of the Teutonic Knights, and later a formidable member of the Hanseatic League.  Prussian influence is still seen in the old waterfront buildings, especially the Crane Gate, constructed in 1440, the largest goods lift of the 15^th Century.  The Old City (Stare Miasto) has been carefully restored since WW11 when 80% of the city was destroyed by Russian bombing raids. 

The local shipyards were the birthplace of Solidarity, the union movement, which eventually forced the Russians to negotiate in 1989.  I can remember seeing Lech Walesa on TV in the ‘80s.  He co-founded and headed Solidarity, the Soviet bloc’s  first independent trade and union, won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1983, and became President of Poland from 1990 to 1995.   Another force was Polish Pope John Paul 11.

Get to the new pedestrian bridge at 5.45 pm, and wait until 6 pm for it to be opened.  I think it stays open for half an hour.  There are other boats waiting too.  The Marina Gdansk is directly opposite the Crane Gate.   A friendly marina girl guides us to our place but tells us that the Regatta is happening tomorrow and over the weekend so we can’t stay longer than one night.  I persuade her to let us stay 3 nights when I’m in the office – I say we’re very old and have come a long way!  She says it’ll be very noisy in the marina.  I agree but we’re not going anywhere soon.

Eat on board and watch the final episode of ‘The Handmaid’s Tale’ – it’s all open for another series! 

I’ll sign off now as we have a few days in Gdansk (3 more nights) and we’re going to show you the highlights of our visit.  So no blog until Sunday, 9^th June.