Day 93  Monday, 2nd September 2019

We pay for last night and get a tag for the showers/toilets and laundry.  We both go for showers and I put a load in the washing machine/dryer.  Malcolm’s looking at the weather forecast  and puts a line on the blue rope from the post to the pontoon. I blog – we hope to set off at noon.   The wind increases over the next few days and we’ve booked a lift-out for Friday, so we need to get to Fehmarn, pick up our car and go home.  We make a very dignified exit – the rope trick works very well!

Circle the harbour, stowing the ropes and putting the fenders away, and putting up the main.  Outside it’s still very lumpy, with big seas.  I prepared sandwiches before we left and cup o’soups (our new insulated mugs keep them very hot) so we have them as we try to leave Warnemunde behind.  There are two cruise ships in Warnemunde – must be there to visit Rostock.

We’re forced to tack with the main (1 reef) and the genoa (1 reef) with the engine on, which adds another 10 miles to our journey.  Get drenched as the waves are much bigger outside Warnemunde.


The wind seems to be accelerating and goes up to 24 knots, veering from SW to W, so more reefs go in.  Then the tiller collapses – Malcolm’s only tightened it up this morning, but the crashing of the waves must have loosened it.  The skipper holds the tiller – he’s kneeling on the floor – and I go down to find the hammer and spanners he needs to tighten the tiller.  They’re in the tool locker and, after a huge wave,  I crash into the table and hurt my knee and elbow.  I’m quite stunned and Malcolm tells me to take my time but I can’t leave him on the floor holding the tiller!  There’s water on the floor of the forecabin and things have been thrown everywhere, even when we’ve stowed them safely.  I hold the tiller upright while the skipper tightens up the bolts.  We’re shattered but have many more hours to go. 

Once in the lee of the island of Fehmarn, the waves reduce.   I manage to take a photo of a rainbow – treasure at the end of a rainbow!


We’re nearing our home port at last!  It’s 8 pm and the sun’s going down as we see the three towers of the hotel.  Have to put on our navigation lights.  

Fehmarn – at last!

Find a vacant boom mooring and Malcolm has to leap from the bow as I’m injured and attaches the bow lines.  The wind swings our stern out to the other side (the place is for two boats) and a friendly next-door sailor says we can attach a line to his boat and haul her back over.  We do this and attach the clip onto the end of the boom.  Next door asks us if we’ve been to the Gulf of Bothnia (north of Stockholm) – bit like going round Scotland, have you been to Cape Wrath and through the Pentland Firth?  No, we haven’t been to the Gulf of Bothnia!!!

After this it’s about 9pm and we have a Fray Bentos steak pie and a can of Baked Beans.  And don’t watch any films at all …..

We’ve done 1800 miles this year – all the way round the Baltic, apart from the Gulf of Bothnia!   

And I’m signing off from writing the Blog – we’re having a busy week getting the boat prepared for the lift-out on Friday  (taking all the sails down, the spray hood and the dodgers, putting the clothes, sheets and towels etc. in the car) and then winterising the boat when it’s in the shed over the weekend.

A big Thank You to all my readers – love all the comments! See you next year …..  

5 thoughts on “

  1. Sally

    My goodness Joanna- what a day you’ve ended on. Sorry you got injured! I can imagine the hard work you have ahead to get the boat ready for Friday. What a huge distance you’ve covered!!! I shall miss my daily blog read.
    Safe journey home xxx


  2. Carol Keighley

    I’m feeling strangely excited for your homecoming – this from someone who is now always ready for home after two weeks away. I admire your courage and sense of adventure and have enjoyed my (almost) daily fix from the Baltic enormously. Now you have really earned a few winter months cosying up at home, cooking on your Aga and knitting by the fireside. Happy wedding anniversary. Carol xx


    1. Hi Carol, We’re ready to come home! Love your comments about cosying up in Whitby. And thanks for remembering our wedding anniversary – we won’t be celebrating it on the day but waiting until we get back home. You are one of my most loyal readers! xxxxx


  3. June Young

    Phew what a trying last lap! Your stamina is awe inspiring! For the sailing and for the Blog, The Odyssey pales to insignificance!! Looking forward to getting you safely back home. xxx


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