Day 88  Wednesday, 28th August 2019

We take the number 4 bus and buy a day ticket for 150 Danish Kroner each (almost £10) as it’s going through several zones on the island, the bus driver tells me!

We travel to the heights of the island, through a very forested area, ‘Almindingen’.  The trees we’ve noticed are both deciduous and evergreen – such a change from the coasts of the south Baltic where they’re all evergreen. 

A young man on the bus tells us where to get off for Osterlars Church, one of the four round churches on Bornholm.  They were built as church strongholds to serve as places of worship, and during troubled times as places of refuge and fortifications against enemy attack. 


The uppermost storeys served as excellent storage areas for goods destined for the Baltic Sea trade. This is the Belfry in which are hung two bells.

The church is situated on a ridge more than 100 metres above sea level: the coast can be seen from the rotunda walkway, approximately 3 kms away.

The Baltic Sea

In the church, there are fine frescoes, depicting the life of Christ, beginning with the Annunciation and ending with the Day of Judgement.  They date from around 1350 but were restored in 1960.

The nativity

Back to the bus stop, after an hour at the Church, and we’re heading for Gudhjem, my guide book says it ‘is the best-looking of Bornholm’s harbour towns’.  Malcolm says it must the be the Clovelly of Bornholm!  The steep hill from the bus stop down to the two harbours is dominated by a windmill, brooding over the town.

The windmill
The windmill by Karl Isakson


We eat our bread rolls and salads we bought at the Coop last night in the East harbour, watching the ferry for Christianso leave (we nearly went to the island Christianso, but didn’t have time) and the Thor coming in (Thor goes to the cliffs and the Bornholm Art Museum). 


There are lots of smokeries here.  The painting is by Oluf Host, ‘The Red Smokehouse’.

Then we find the West harbour – if you want to rent a boat for sailing round the many harbours in Bornholm you could hire this one!


Next we go to Oluf Host’s house which is now a museum and art gallery.  I love the paintings by Olaf Host (1884 – 1966)!  And there’s an exhibition by Karl Isakson (1878 – 1922), 6 paintings, who was an influence on Host – Nordic modernism – when they painted together in early 1920’s.

Oluf Host
A still life by Karl Isakson

We explore outside and I take this photo of the house, which overlooks the West harbour. 


We wend our way back up the hill and I stop to buy some Bornholm honey while Malcolm’s gone into a café and bought a beer!  I have one too and then we leave on the 4 bus again and travel to the top of the island.  Many schoolchildren get on at Sandvig-Allinge and leave the bus at various stops, some quite isolated – might be farmers’ children,  on the way to Ronne. 

We go back to the Coop and do a big shop.  We eat pork chops tonight with new potatoes and broccoli, in the cockpit.  Setting off for Germany tomorrow so have an early night – after another episode of ‘Mad Men’.  I’m never going to get to watch the films I bought in Sainsbury’s!



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